It started with a hair brain idea to create a skiing version of the Three Peaks Challenge. After couple of lively discussion in bars we eventually agreed on the Three Countries Weekend Ski Challenge. The key rules being that we couldn’t leave work until Friday afternoon and we had to be back in the office first thing Monday. Notwithstanding having skied in three different  countries over the 48 hour period, departing from two different airports in different countries.

Leaving work early Friday afternoon we arrived at Heathrow well on time for our scheduled departure. A swift glass of wine and snack at Cafe Rouge before rushing down to the gate, we were soon up in the air and on our way. Landing in Turin just after the rush hour on Friday, it was then a slow drive around the orbital but once heading north we made relatively quick progress towards the Aosta valley before exiting at Sainte-Vincent for Breuil-Cervinia. Up to this point things had gone smoothly, but clearly our satellite navigation hadn’t been told that not all roads in Italy are suitable for cars wider than a a couple of feet! Eventually we ignored its advice and soon then found the signposts that sent us correctly on our way.

Whilst our sat nav said just 22km at the start of the road up it has to be said it seemed a very long 22kms, partly for the fact that it was clearly a popular destination for the affluent people of Milan and Turin, and the fact it just climbs and climbs around countless bends before finally arriving at 2,050m with snow covered roads. Arriving at darkness, we found the car park before decanting into our hotel. A quick change and we headed into the centre of town. It is mainly one long street and those of us making our first visit to Breuil-Cervinia found it a really pleasant experience as quite simply it is just packed with Italian charm. Character buildings with lots of wood and cosy fires alight inside, the standout part being the warm welcome from the hosts at the restaurant we selected who then went about passionately looking after us, being discrete but attentive, and serving some fabulous home cooked comfort food for our fatigued group of rag tag individuals.

Day 1 – Italy and Switzerland All In A Day

Most of us I am sure, fuelled by wine and beer, not withstanding the strangely intoxicating groelle hit our pillows and quickly fell asleep.  Saturday morning seemed to come all too quickly as we arose a little worse for wear in some quarters for first lifts! Opting for the international tickets, we headed up the gondola that was up a short hill and then across to the cable car. Our timing had been perfect in terms of snow conditions. Earlier that week the Alps had seen what was to be it is largest dump of snow all season and there was an abundance of soft powder.

Despite the heavy snow that had fallen, as we dropped out of Italy and into Switzerland, heading for Zermatt below, we experienced beautifully manicured pistes, perfect for finding our ski legs and carving all the way down to the mid station.

If you haven’t skied Cervinia or Zermatt, you really have to make the effort. The skiing is both extensive and high altitude, the lifts modern and fast loading, despite the large presence of Swiss and Italian weekenders (the latter who only seem to ski mornings), and the slopes flattering and wide in most cases.

After a testosterone morning, one or two legs welcomed the 12:30  lunch stop on the Swiss side. A recommendation from one of our party, we headed to Chez Vrony which we easily found after a short ski below the Findelbahn Chair Lift. On warmer sunnier Saturday’s a seat outside on the terrace with its fur blankets we are sure would have been a fabulous choice, but on a cold crisp day in January we welcomed the warm character interior. Once inside the food took centre-stage and the recommendation proved to be spot on. It isn’t a low cost option, but expect eloquent mountain dining and dishes to match. Quality food costs and this is one of the best mountain restaurants we think you will find in the Alps.

The afternoon, weary legs headed back over the Italian side and first down the ….. before heading back to the main Cervinia village and a welcome drink at a bar below the slopes. I have to say we love the warmth of the Italians, if ever there is a nation that has mastered service and warmth right, it is there. Sadly however we were on a mission, trekking back to the hotel to change our shoes after a swift couple, we collected our bags, and moved quickly onto the second and last leg of our weekend Three Countries Skiing break.Share

A slow drive down the valley, following brake tail lights down the winding resort road we eventually joined the auto route, taking a right up towards Monte Biano (Mont Blanc to the rest of us). Passing Courmayeur before accessing the Mont Blanc tunnel, we exited and quickly dropped into Chamonix below.

Day 2 – Chamonix, France

The town itself is situated quite lowly at 1,050m but their was an abundance of snow around the streets which we were reliable informed was the Mont Blanc factor (great sales pitch whether true or otherwise). It is, alongside Zermatt, probably our favourite ski resort centre. Both steeped in mountain history, there is an aura, as well as fabulous history and residences, that make both standout from the crowd.

We refreshed quickly, and as time headed on we avoided the town centre establishments and strolled out to the edge of town to a beautiful, grand farmhouse restaurant called l’Impossible that we had been recommended. If you are a regular visitor to Chamonix and haven’t been yet, search it out, as you won’t be disappointed. Run by an Italian couple, it is mix of French and Italian cuisine, with many of the dishes great for allergy sufferers (Gluten intolerance, lactose, etc.) with menus clearly labeled and prepared with a real understanding of the suffering that goes with such if chefs get it wrong. Once inside, the large centre stage fireplace lights up the room and food matches the ambience. A must visit again in our view. Positively entertained and dined, and a few too many glasses of wine, we took the short 10-minute walk back into town before collapsing in our rooms.

Sunday the sun was shining brightly early morning but it was a cold start. A quick breakfast and we loaded up the car and headed up to the Grands Montets car park. It was only 8:30am but Chamonix breeds its skiers keen and the car park was already filling quickly. We were joined by a couple of locals who took us behind the main Grands Montets cable car and on to the new Gondola. What a difference that 2 minute walk makes to missing queues!

The local skiers in our party insisted we headed up the Bochard Gondola and then down into the Lavancher bowl. After a briefing on where to ski and where not to after the heavy snow a few days before, we found fresh tracks despite keeping right in what we were told was the ‘relative’ safe zone. By the time we reached the bottom it was fast approaching mid morning so a quick café and then across to the Grands Montets cable car for Chamonix’s highest pisted ski lift at 3,275m. We booked a slot online (it works similar to theme park rides) and judging by the queues that we bypassed it was clearly a sensible choice. Chamonix is somewhere truly special, but slightly scary and intimidating too, least of all at the very top of the Grands Montets with slightly weary legs. In no uncertain terms we were told to follow our local friends and to not veer off the piste of their lines when off-piste due to the crevasses that lines the top section. Whilst many people headed left half way down, we kept right taking the Point du Vue and the Glacier d’Argentiere to our right. We told that we would understand why, and ignoring the steep parts of the leg, we did acknowledge that it was spectacularly scenic and well worth the selection. Half way down we were given a freer ski and tried our best to bounce and ski the fall line like our friends who had lived over a decade in the resort.

Our thighs by now burning and our stomachs crying out for replenishment, we arrived over a brow at the Chalet Refuge de Lognan. It felt like we had stumbled across it but looking at the smug grin on our two hosts as they confirmed our table reservation it obviously wasn’t! The Refuge Lognan is Chez Vrony in terms of its eloquence, but it is equally as good in our view for a magnitude of reasons. It is rustic, earthy but still full of character inside and the dishes beautifully prepared farmhouse dining, freshly prepared and full of the flavour that only home made cooking can truly master. The five of the non-driving party enjoyed more than the chauffeurs one glass of wine, and finally after what was nearly a two hour lunch we headed outside to be reunited by our equipment.

I guess the two hours highlighted the tiredness that was creeping in as we carefully navigated the black mogul run that takes you down, back onto the home run to the bottom. One of two of us would have quite happily stopped here but we were coached, bordering on coerced back up and this time after the gondola onto the Herse. It sounds wrong this name but to our pleasant satisfaction the blacks and the off-piste were a virtual delight after the mornings escapades. A couple of runs and the clock was fast heading towards four as we heading down for our final ski of the weekend. Back at the car, we loaded skis into bags and changed footwear, avoiding the bars that cried out for our attention. With Chamonix being so close, it was a mere 90 minutes after this that we were back in Geneva airport and well in time for our late evening flight.

We boarded just before 10pm local time and just over an hour later arrived back in London.

It had been a tiring, but amazing weekend, fabulous food, stunning scenery, great company – and we had well and truly achieved our goal of creating the Three Countries Weekend Ski Challenge.